Not so long ago, New York's hottest spot, the Meatpacking District was something of a "No-Go" area for many New Yorkers. Located in an area that stretches across 14th Street between 10th Avenue and the West Side Highway; both geographically and culturally, it was off the map.
What was down there, after all, comprised of hard-working butchers and meatpackers working well into the wee hours and the only people who wore stilettos down here were the transvestite prostitutes.
However, while those elements of the MPD are still in existence, they have been whittled down somewhat, they now co-exist with an entirely different animal - if you'll excuse the pun! Cobblestone streets still slightly reek of livestock blood in the summer but "ladies who lunch" still manage to navigate their Manola Blahniks through the cracks to get the best outdoor seating in the city!
Once the standar attire in the MPD was a bloodstained apron or fishnet stockings (but never together!), now the fashion is rather different and there are a vast number of amazing stores to cater for the change in apparel! For example, Destination, is one of the area's flagship stores, offers fashionistas unique designer accessories in a gallery-type setting. Stella McCartney an Alexander McQueen satisfy those with a taste for haute couture, while Scoop and Girlshop offer fantastic fashions at slightly more affordable prices. As well as the fashion stores a large number of businesses have been drawn to what has become New York's hottest locale. In recent years hip hair salon Bumble and bumble and Armando Corral Salon have taken up residence in the MPD. And even though commercial rents have tripled in the area, many more small businesses have followed suit. But aside from excellent shopping and the macho meatpackers, the MPD has become most famous for it's restaurants and vibrant bar and club scene. Nowadays the beautiful, rich and quite often, famous, congregate in this enclave of fine dining and über-trendy nightlife scene.
As well as New Yorkers, tourists also seem to be wise to the place to go and flock the neighborhood for vying access to all of the hottest spots. There was a time when tourist must sees included the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building, now it seems the MPD is included as a tourist trap. In fact, recently we've noticed huge tourist buses navigating their way through the narrow cobblestone streets desperately trying to catch a glimpse of a celebrity at lunch! For globetrotters on a limited time-schedule the MPD is certainly the place to visit. Rather European in its make-up, culinary "artistes" cater for all palettes. We've got the French bistro Florent, Thai inspired Spice Market, Irish Bar, Brass Monkey and a taste of Japan in ONO.
People who visit the MPD for the first time are always blown away by the place. It is after all a complete contradiction in terms. Much of the original architecture still remains - i.e. the low buildings, the dilapidated warehouses with metal awnings, however now they nestle snugly alongside some of NY's hottest clubs and restaurants. At night the meatpackers still do their job, although now clubbers step over animal carcasses to hail a cab in the early hours! Another unusual aspect of the MPD is the fact that it is still so, relatively low-rise, and New York skies are clearly visible. Couple that with cobblestone streets and you really get the feeling of a market. The fact that it's right on the West Side Highway and overlooking the Hudson just adds to the appeal for renters who enjoy the eccentricity and the exclusivity of the neighborhood. Not for the faint-hearted though, or the poor! Realty prices in this area have skyrocketed. An while rentals are much sought after in the MPD, a realty agent told me, "Apartments are very difficult to come by in this part of town. Nobody's moving out!" But if you can't affor to rent down here maybe you could stay for a night or two in one of the super fancy hotels! Top hoteller Andre Balazs is currently building a new $24million hotel, The Standard, at the end of Little West 12th Street. The hotel, which will overlook the Hudson and the historical High Line, is due to be completed in 2006. The there's the multi-million "south-beach" inspired Gansevoort Hotel that charges from #395 to $5000 a night and the über-exclusive Soho House which charges $2000 a year membership fees.
I see the MPD as an evolving animal. Thus far all diverse elements have been able to comfortable co-exist, which is the main draw of this unique area. Thankfully, it is a land-marked area and protected somewhat by various organisations such as the Greenwich Village Society For Historic Preservation. Growth and progress is essential for the prosperity of anything but I just hope that this onetime NY underbelly will hold onto its utterly unique personality.
By Elaine Gonevan
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